Frequently Asked Questions

Our electrical FAQs page brings together the questions we’re asked most often, pulled together from across our services. Can’t find what you’re looking for? Get in touch and we’ll be happy to help.

Electrical FAQs by Service

Electrical FAQs: EICR / Electrical Safety Reports

How long does an EICR take?

A typical EICR for a 3-bedroom house takes around 2-3 hours, depending on the size of the property and the number of circuits. Larger homes or properties with older wiring may take longer. We’ll give you a more accurate estimate when we book your appointment. For more on electrical safety standards, see Electrical Safety First.

How much does an EICR cost?

EICR costs vary depending on the size of the property and the number of circuits, so we don’t quote a fixed price online. Get in touch for a free, no-obligation quote based on your specific property.

Do I need an EICR if I’m selling my house?

It’s not a strict legal requirement for homeowners selling a property, but many buyers and mortgage lenders now ask for a recent EICR as part of the conveyancing process, and it can help reassure buyers there are no hidden electrical issues.

How often do I need an EICR?

For homeowners, we recommend an EICR every 10 years, or whenever you buy a property if one hasn’t been carried out recently. Landlords have a legal duty to have one every 5 years or at each change of tenancy.

What happens if my EICR fails?

If your EICR comes back with C1 or C2 observations, the installation is judged unsatisfactory and remedial work is needed to bring it up to a safe standard. We’ll explain exactly what’s required and can usually quote for the work at the same time as the inspection.

See our full EICR / Electrical Safety Reports page →

Electrical FAQs: Consumer Unit Changes

How long does a consumer unit upgrade take?

A straightforward consumer unit upgrade typically takes a full day, including testing before and after installation. Larger properties or upgrades that uncover additional issues may take a little longer.

Will I be left without power during the work?

Yes, briefly – the power needs to be off while we disconnect the old board and install the new one, usually for a few hours. We’ll let you know what to expect and can plan around your household’s needs where possible.

Is a consumer unit upgrade notifiable to Building Control?

Yes, but as NICEIC-registered electricians we can self-certify the work under the Competent Person Scheme, which means we handle the Building Regulations notification for you – there’s no need to involve Building Control separately.

Do I need a new consumer unit for things like an EV charger?

Not always, but older consumer units without spare capacity, RCBOs, or surge protection often need upgrading to safely support an EV charger. We’ll check your existing board as part of any EV charger installation quote.

What’s the difference between an RCD and an RCBO?

An RCD protects a group of circuits from electric shock by cutting the power if it detects a fault, but a fault on one circuit trips the whole group. An RCBO combines RCD and circuit breaker protection for a single circuit, so only the faulty circuit trips, leaving the rest of the property unaffected.

See our full Consumer Unit Changes page →

Electrical FAQs: Rewires

How long does a full rewire take?

A full rewire typically takes 1-2 weeks depending on the size of the property, though a partial rewire of one or two rooms can often be done more quickly. We’ll give you a clear timescale as part of your quote.

Do I need to move out during a rewire?

Not necessarily – many people stay in the property, though you should expect disruption in the rooms being worked on, with power off to affected circuits at times. Some clients prefer alternative accommodation for particularly disruptive stages, especially in properties without a usable kitchen or bathroom in the meantime.

Is a rewire notifiable under Building Regulations?

Yes, but as NICEIC-registered electricians we can self-certify the work under the Competent Person Scheme, so we handle the Building Regulations notification on your behalf.

What’s included in a full rewire?

A full rewire includes removing the old wiring, sockets and switches, installing new cabling, back boxes, sockets, switches and lighting points, fitting a new consumer unit to current safety standards, and testing and certifying the completed installation.

See our full Rewires page →

EV Charger Installation

How long does an EV charger installation take?

Most home installations are completed in a single day, though this can vary depending on the cable route from your consumer unit and whether any additional work is needed, such as an earth rod or consumer unit upgrade.

Will my electrics need upgrading for an EV charger?

Not always – we check the capacity of your incoming supply and consumer unit against the extra load a charger adds (typically 7.4kW) as part of a load assessment before quoting, and let you know if any upgrade is needed.

Is smart charging really a legal requirement?

Yes – since 2022, home chargers sold in the UK must have smart charging capability, meaning they default to not charging during peak evening hours (typically 8-11pm) unless you override it. This is built into the charger itself, not something we configure separately.

Do you notify anyone about the installation?

Yes – the new circuit is tested and certified as with any other circuit, plus notification to your District Network Operator (DNO) where required, which is a legal requirement for some installations and something we handle as part of the job.

See our full EV Charger Installation page →

Kitchen Refurbishment

When should I involve you in my kitchen design?

As early as possible – ideally before the kitchen is designed, not after. Once units and worktops are fitted, moving a socket or adding a circuit becomes far more disruptive and expensive, so we’re happy to work from your kitchen designer’s plan to mark out positions in advance.

What circuits does a kitchen typically need?

Dedicated circuits for the oven/hob, and separate circuits for high-draw appliances such as a dishwasher, washing machine or American-style fridge-freezer, sized to the appliance and cable run – plus lighting, extractor fan wiring, and often a fused connection for a boiling-water or filtered-water tap.

What’s the most commonly missed thing at the design stage?

Cabling for an island or peninsula – this needs to be planned before the floor goes down, and it’s the single most common thing we see missed if electrics aren’t considered early enough.

How does the work fit around my other trades?

We first-fix the wiring before plastering, tiling and units go in, then return for second fix once the kitchen is fitted, to connect and test sockets, switches and appliances. We’re happy to liaise directly with your kitchen fitter to keep the sequence on track.

See our full Kitchen Refurbishment page →

Bathroom Refurbishment

What are the “zones” in a bathroom and why do they matter?

BS 7671 splits the area around a bath or shower into zones (0, 1 and 2) that set out what electrical equipment is allowed and how well protected it needs to be, because of the closer proximity of water and electricity. We plan fittings, sockets and lighting around these zones as part of your refurb.

Can I have a socket in my bathroom?

Ordinary 13A sockets aren’t permitted within 3m of the edge of a bath or shower. The exception is a shaver socket to BS EN 61558-2-5, which can be sited in zone 2 or beyond.

Is bathroom electrical work notifiable?

Yes – bathroom electrics fall under Part P of the Building Regulations. As NICEIC-registered electricians we self-certify this work under the Competent Person Scheme, so we handle the notification on your behalf.

When should I involve you in the design?

As early as possible, ideally before first fix – tell us where the bath, shower and any underfloor heating will go so lighting, extractor fan and socket positions can be planned around the zones correctly.

See our full Bathroom Refurbishment page →

Electrical FAQs: Fault Finding

How quickly can you come out to a fault?

We aim to respond to fault-finding calls promptly, particularly where a property has lost power or safety is a concern – get in touch and we’ll give you a realistic timescale based on your situation.

Why does my circuit breaker keep tripping?

A tripping breaker is usually protecting you from a genuine fault – commonly a damaged cable, a faulty appliance, or dampness getting into an outdoor fitting. Repeatedly resetting it without finding the cause risks masking a real problem, so it’s worth getting it looked at.

Is fault finding the same as an EICR?

No – an EICR is a scheduled health check of the whole installation, while fault finding is diagnosing a specific problem you’re already experiencing, such as a trip, a dead socket, or flickering lights. We carry out either, depending on what you need.

How is fault-finding work priced?

Straightforward faults are often diagnosed and fixed within a single visit at a fixed or hourly rate; more elusive intermittent faults may need further investigation, which we’ll always discuss and agree with you before proceeding.

See our full Fault Finding page →

PAT Testing

What is PAT testing?

Portable Appliance Testing (PAT) is a visual inspection and set of electrical tests carried out on portable appliances – things like kettles, extension leads, power tools and office equipment – to check they’re safe to use.

Do I legally need PAT testing?

There’s no single law that specifically requires PAT testing, but employers and landlords have a general legal duty under the Electricity at Work Regulations to keep electrical equipment safe, and PAT testing is the standard, recognised way of demonstrating that.

How often should appliances be tested?

This depends on the type of appliance and how it’s used – equipment in a higher-risk environment such as a workshop generally needs testing more often than office equipment. We can advise on a sensible schedule for your premises.

What do I get after testing?

Each item is labelled with a pass/fail sticker and date, and you’ll receive a certificate and full register of the equipment tested for your records.

See our full PAT Testing page →

Smoke & Heat Alarms

How many smoke alarms do I need in my home?

Current guidance (BS 5839-6) calls for at least one smoke alarm in the principal habitable room, usually the living room, and in circulation spaces such as hallways and landings on every storey, plus a heat alarm in the kitchen rather than a smoke alarm, which is prone to false alarms from cooking.

Should alarms be interlinked?

Yes – alarms on the same storey are usually interlinked, so that one alarm sounding triggers all of them, giving you a warning wherever you are in the property.

Battery or mains-powered?

Mains-powered alarms with a tamper-proof battery back-up are recommended over battery-only alarms in most modern installations, and are usually installed as part of a rewire or consumer unit upgrade, wired to a dedicated, clearly labelled way on the consumer unit.

What are my duties as a landlord?

Landlords in England must ensure at least one smoke alarm is fitted on every storey with a room used as living accommodation, and a carbon monoxide alarm in any room with a fixed combustion appliance such as a gas boiler or wood burner. Alarms must be tested and confirmed working at the start of each new tenancy.

See our full Smoke & Heat Alarms page →

Outdoor & Garden Lighting

What do the IP ratings on outdoor lights mean?

IP (Ingress Protection) ratings show how well a fitting is sealed against dust and water. As a guide, IP44 suits sheltered spots like under an eave, IP65 suits fittings fully exposed to rain such as wall or path lights, and IP67/68 is for fittings that may be submerged, such as pond lighting.

Is low-voltage garden lighting a good option?

For decorative path or planting lighting, a low-voltage (12V) system run from a single outdoor-rated transformer is often a simpler, lower-risk option than extending mains-voltage circuits around the garden, and it’s worth considering alongside a mains installation.

How do you protect buried cable?

Cable buried in the garden is armoured (SWA) and laid at a protected depth, with warning tape above it so it’s not disturbed by future digging – see our cable trenching page for more detail.

What control options are there for garden lighting?

Options include a simple manual switch, a timer, a dusk-to-dawn photocell, PIR movement sensors for security lighting, or smart/app-based control – we’re happy to talk through what suits how you’ll use the space.

See our full Outdoor & Garden Lighting page →

Cable Trenching & Underground Supplies

How deep does an underground cable need to be buried?

We lay armoured (SWA) cable at a protected depth, typically 450-600mm, with warning tape laid above it so anyone digging in future gets fair warning before reaching the cable.

Do you check for existing pipes and cables before digging?

Yes – we scan the route with a cable avoidance tool to check for existing gas, water or other electrical services before any digging starts, and agree the route with you in advance.

Will you reinstate my garden afterwards?

Our price covers the electrical installation – digging, laying and backfilling the trench – but not turf, planting, paving or other landscaping reinstatement. We leave the ground level and backfilled, ready for you or your landscaper to finish.

Do I need permission if the cable crosses a footpath or road?

Possibly – if the route needs to cross a public footpath or road this may require separate street works permissions, and we’ll discuss this with you before starting.

See our full Cable Trenching & Underground Supplies page →

Electrical FAQs: Landlord Electrical Safety

How often do landlords need an EICR?

Landlords in England must have an EICR carried out at least every 5 years, or sooner if a previous report specifies an earlier date, and at every change of tenancy.

What’s the penalty for non-compliance?

Local authorities can serve a remedial notice and, if it isn’t complied with, arrange for the work themselves and recover the cost from you. They can also impose a civil penalty of up to £40,000 per breach, raised from £30,000 in November 2025.

Do these rules apply in Wales or Scotland too?

No – the 5-yearly EICR duty described here applies to privately rented properties in England. Wales and Scotland have their own, broadly similar electrical safety regulations for landlords, so check the specific requirements if your rental property is outside England.

What do I do if my property fails its EICR?

You’ll need to carry out any C1 or C2 remedial work within 28 days, or sooner if the report specifies, and provide written confirmation of the completed work and further test results to your tenant and local authority.

Do smoke alarms count as part of landlord electrical safety duties?

Smoke and heat alarms are covered by separate regulations rather than the EICR itself, but landlords have a legal duty to fit them too – see our smoke and heat alarms page for the current requirements.

See our full Landlord Electrical Safety page →

Minor Works

What counts as “minor works”?

Minor works generally means smaller jobs that don’t involve a new circuit – things like adding or moving a socket, replacing a light fitting, or fitting an additional switch on an existing circuit.

Do I get a certificate for minor works?

Yes – you’ll receive a Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate confirming the work has been tested and meets current wiring regulations, which is worth keeping with your property paperwork.

How is this different from a full EICR?

An EICR is a full health check of your entire installation; minor works certification only covers the specific alteration or addition carried out, not the wider system.

When would I need a new circuit instead of minor works?

If the job involves a new circuit back to the consumer unit – for example a new socket circuit, a shower, or an EV charger – it’s treated as notifiable work rather than minor works, and certified accordingly.

See our full Minor Works page →

Ventilation

Do I legally need an extractor fan in my bathroom?

If your bathroom doesn’t have an opening window, Building Regulations require mechanical extraction – a minimum of 15 litres per second for a bathroom with a bath or shower, or 6 l/s for a WC-only room. Even with a window, a fan is usually worthwhile to control condensation.

What’s the difference between an extractor fan and MVHR?

A standard extractor fan removes moist air from one room, typically a bathroom or kitchen, and expels it outside. MVHR is a whole-house system that extracts stale air from every wet room and supplies filtered fresh air to living spaces and bedrooms, recovering most of the heat from the outgoing air in the process.

Will MVHR reduce my energy bills?

It can – by recovering roughly 70-90% of the heat that would otherwise be lost through ventilation, MVHR reduces the heating needed to warm incoming fresh air. Savings depend heavily on how airtight the rest of the property is, so it suits well-insulated homes and new builds best.

My bathroom fan is noisy or barely working – can you help?

Yes – this is often down to an old, underpowered fan, a blocked or badly routed duct, or a failing motor. We can inspect the existing setup and recommend whether a repair, like-for-like replacement, or upgrade makes the most sense.

See our full Ventilation page →